Category: News

1936 Transmission

1936 transmission for sale with later top and kicker cover.  Two small repairs, looks to have very fresh parts inside but no speedo worm drive is installed. SOLD

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1948 Panhead

This 1948 panhead just needs a higher set of bars and a few odd tweeks.  The new bars weren’t easy to locate but they look great and will look even better when fitted.

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Harley 1956 panhead parts for sale.

I was doing a 56 Panhead but plans change and I now have plenty of parts for sale.

They inlcude; Original gas tanks, repop gas tanks, original and repop badges, a couple of rear fenders, and a nice original speedo.  I’m starting to list it on eBay.

I also have a 1956 frame which I will take photos of and post here.

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Repop top clamp 1912

I am putting a new top clamp and front fork leg caps on a 1912.  It is amazing how correct some of these reproduction parts are these days.  It is sometimes difficult to explain the differences between original and repop; the parts look great but just ‘different’.

The original parts look a little slimmer, more delicate, maybe less robust?  But the repop parts keep these bikes going and that’s what it’s about.

The original clamp is the top one, the repop below. They have both been nickel plated.

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Front Fender Valance comparison.

Here are some close ups of the fender valances.  I hope they show the quality and accuracy of the work.  They take a long time to make but it is best to get them correct.

The OTHER valances were bought from a ‘specialist’ in teens machines but after buying a pair for my own restoration I decided they were not good enough. You should consider the rib (groove), its definition and position, the distance between the rib and the edge of the fender, and the way the rib ends as well as the overall appearance of the parts.

 

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Front Fender Valance detail

This is the latest batch of front fender valances which are now available.  They are made from a pattern taken from an original front fender and then matched to those from another machine to check for authenticity and accuracy. The grooves have clear precise definition and are located uniformly in relation to the valance edge.

They will fit the original HD fenders if you need to make a repair.  They will also fit my own replacement fenders and any others that are made to the same pattern of original factory fenders.

I have matched them to other, less accurate copy fenders and they will fit but need a little massaging. (The common replacement fender on the market is based on a 1916 fender and then cut down to width for the 1914-15 application and then cut down again for the 1910-13 application).  Because the profile on the cut down ’16 fenders is wrong (they look too flat) these valances protrude slightly but they can be made to work.

Fitment; These fenders are ready to bolt on. First fit them with clamps to check that all is in order (straight fenders are best). Then starting at the bottom, drill one hole through the fender hole and into the valance. Secure with a temporary bolt and nut and then drill though hole two, working up the fender; secure and continue.

Do NOT drill through the bottom hole first and then move direct to the top hole. Remember you must account for the curvature of the fender.  These valances are flat but have been laser cut to match the original part. Use clamps to make the job easier. After you have secured the valance in place with temporary bolts you can then think about final adjustments and making the slot for the brace mount. Then you can fix them permanently.

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BK263 Belt Guard detail

I have just finished this latest batch of belt guards.  They are a very close copy of the original item and fit perfectly to both of the original rear fenders on my ’12 and ’13.  I will post the fitment of one of these parts to an original fender.

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